Segovia, a large open-air museum

© Mª Luisa Saludador

20-04-2009 By Marisa Casado Segovia, a candidate for the 2016 European Capital of Culture, is a city made for exploration on foot. In the shadow of its impressive Roman aqueduct you’ll find medieval streets with hidden artistic treasures spanning numerous eras and styles. The city of Segovia, encircled by the River Clamores and River Eresma and situated on a rocky crag 1,005 metres above sea level and 7km from the Sierra de Guadarrama, dates back to around 700 BC. The first inhabitants are believed to have been Celts, though the city has since played host to Romans, Goths, Muslims and Jews... all of whom have left their own cultural imprint on the acropolis. These influences have all played their part in the city’s open-air museum feel, with seemingly every corner offering a surprise of some sort for visitors. No surprise, however, is the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status that was awarded in 1985. The best way to get to know Segovia is a walk through its old and narrow medieval-style streets, an experience that will almost inevitably culminate in the discovery of one of its beautiful town squares framed with historic architecture. Ditch the car. The best way to see Segovia is on foot. Prepare to be amazed by its impressive aqueduct, Romanesque churches, Alcázar, Cathedral, palaces and ancient city walls. © Mª Luisa Saludador The world's best-preserved aqueduct The most enduring and emblematic image of Segovia must surely be its Roman aqueduct, considered one of the world’s most important historic monuments. The aqueduct, more than any other Segovia landmarks, breathes life into the city that has spread beneath its arches over the centuries and the place simply wouldn’t be the same without it. Impossible to ignore, the aqueduct is visible from virtually every corner of the city. For the best views head to Plaza del Azoguejo, where you can view the structure’s maximum 29 metre height in all its glory. It’s here in this square that you can also get one of the best available views of the aqueduct’s two niches, one of them occupied with an image of the Virgen de la Fuencisla [the Patroness of Segovia]. As well as one of the most stunning city views from the stairs located to the side of the aqueduct, Plaza del Azoguejo also offers an opportunity to get a close look at the large, rough-hewn granite stones that form the aqueduct. These stones, structured naturally without mortar or cement, represent one of the monument’s most striking features. An incredible feat of engineering perfection and ingenuity. Spanning a length of 782 metres, the aqueduct was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan in the latter half of the 1st century in order to channel water to Segovia from the nearby mountains, a task that it fulfilled until 1884 and that it could, amazingly, still perform today. As recently as 1928, the aqueduct was deployed to supply water to the upper town, in this instance via a pipe that still runs over the old canal. © Mª Luisa Saludador A stroll through the old town There are so many delights waiting to be discovered as you stroll through the town that it’s difficult to single out one highlight, though no visit to Segovia is complete without a trip to the Cathedral and Alcázar, two of its most important buildings. The late Gothic-style Cathedral, located in Plaza Mayor is a majestic building with beautiful spires. Built under the direction of Juan Gil de Hontañón, the architect behind the New Cathedral of Salamanca, the Cathedral’s windows, choir and altarpiece make it a must-see attraction. A visit to the Cathedral Museum is also highly recommended. Here you can view over 500 incunabula including a real treasure, Sinodal de Aguilafuente, widely considered as the first ever book to be printed in Spain. The Alcázar makes an imposing fortress with a location and structure that practically screams for attention. Situated on the confluence of the Eresma and Clamores, the building dates back to the Celtic era and still retains its deep moat and drawbridge. The Alcázar has served as a royal palace for several reigning kings through the years including Alfonso VIII, Alfonso X el Sabio, Juan II, Enrique IV and the Catholic Kings. Be sure to climb the Torre de Alfonso X El Sabio tower that offers beautiful views of the city. © Mª Luisa Saludador And if you still have time after all that then you could either head to the ancient city walls, 2,500 metres in length and dating back to the end of the eleventh century, or step into any one of the many Roman churches that you’ll find along the way such as San Millán, San Andrés, San Esteban, la Iglesia de los Templarios, San Martín or La Trinidad. Also highly recommended is a walk through the Jewish quarter and the Barrio de los Caballeros, an area crammed with Gothic renaissance and the palaces that once acted as family homes for Segovia’s nobility. And what better way to finish the day than by sampling some authentic Spanish food. Lamb and suckling pig are considered the real stars of Segovia’s regional cuisine, but there are many delicious alternatives to enjoy including Castilian soup or judiones de la granja [the creamy, giant white beans often used in stews and paellas]. And there’s always the tapas option if you’re looking for something lighter…tortilla, hams, torreznos [pork crackling] and chipirones [squid]. Tapas dishes are usually served from around 12:30 midday and then again from 7pm. A great selection of bars can be found around Plaza Mayor, a perfect place to relax and enjoy some great tapas ... washed down, of course, with a first-class Ribera del Duero.