Before leaving to explore the fjords of the Northern coast, which are amongst the most spectacular landscapes in Europe, take time to visit Oslo! The oldest Scandinavian capital captures the quintessence of the nation's culture and gastronomy in exceptional settings.
Recommended duration of visit: 3 days
Day One: Taking the City's pulse
Oslo is characterised by its razor-sharp light, its clean, icy air warmed thankfully by the Gulf Stream (the country has the same latitude as Alaska!) and its population density so small that at times it feels like walking in a deserted town.
Oslo is, above all, a way of life. No other European capital is perhaps so in synch with the rhythms of nature: in December the days are only 5 hours long and in June there are just 5 hours of night. The moment Spring arrives the population is exultant, rushing to the beaches, going on boat journeys and getting on their bikes! In the summertime the all night party is a necessity imposed by nature contested by no-one and everyone is in the streets, in the cafe terraces or lying in the grass. The rest of the year they are early to rise, early to work and early eaters (dining at 6pm.)
Karl Johans Gate
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The City Centre
Upon arriving, I suggest you take a stroll around the city centre which is set around the animated Karl Johans Gate, Oslo'slong, straight main road running from the Royal Palace to the central station.
Here you will find many national institutions such as the National Theatre and the University Botanical Gardens, the National Gallery, (which houses several of Munch's major canvasses), The Continental Hotel (the capital's most luxurious), the Theatercafeen (a fine Viennese style brasserie) and the Grand Cafe (where Oslo's C19th bohemian society used to meet, from the playwright Henrik Ibsen to the composer Edvard Grieg and from the novellist Knut Hamsun to the painter Edvard Munch.)
The architecture here is predominantly neo-classical, with the exception of the colossal red brick town hall inaugurated in 1950 to celebrate the 900th anniversary of the Oslo foundation. Its two sturdily built towers, erected in front of the port act as a reference point for ships. Inside, in the immense ceremonial hall, the awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize takes place every year on 10th December. It is the only one of the six Nobel prizes which is not awarded in Stockholm.
Aker Brygge
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The port
However to really appreciate Oslo's soul you should head towards the Aker Brygge wharf which is one of the most lively areas of the town. This is the old area of the docks where completely redeveloped warehouses now house restaurants, theatres, cinemas, department stores and offices (including the office of Norway's most famous businessman, the ex prawn fisherman Kjell Inge Røkke; in the summertime you can buy prawns from the fishing boat from which he made his fortune.)
If you look out over the Oslo fjord, which stretches out over 100km, you will notice peninsulas emerging from the blue waters, and also the Akershus Fortress towering above the port, where old sailing ships are moored.
During the summer, the city dwellers take the ferry or their own sailing boats to reach the beautiful beaches of Langøyene, Hovedøya, Ingierstrand, Hvervenbukta, Katten and Fiskvollbukta, where the water is 18°C.
Grünerløkka
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Oslo, the capital of Norwegian Design
For a complete change of scenery take tram number 12 and pay a visit to the old workers' district of Grünerløkka, situated to the north of the town.
Nowadays it is the archetypal middle class “boho” quarter, with its interesting fashion, jewellery, music and Norwegian design shops (such as Norway Says Shop, at 15, Thorvald Meyers Gate which displays the creations of designers who have won several wards in Norway.)
A pleasant walk that runs alongside and crosses the river Akerselva will bring you to Telthus Bakken (literally 'just after the river') a worker's garden lined with little wooden houses on a hillside.
You can also observe one of the many open air crèches here, where children are taught to ski from the tender age of two. “Here you learn how to ski before you learn how to speak!” explains Anne-Marie Grevle, my excellent guide.
Nature is all around
Oslo is less well known than its Nordic counterparts of Stockholm and Copenhagen and is often perceived merely as a departure point for cruises to the fjords. This capital founded by the Vikings nearly one thousand years ago, whose name originally meant 'marshy plain dedicated to God' is nevertheless a surprising town which will delight sporty types, food lovers and enthusiasts of fine arts and grand classical concerts. In spite of the manna-like oil wealth that has descended on Oslo it has managed to remain in harmony with nature through its beaches, ski slopes, traditional wooden houses and large parks. 570,000 inhabitants share an immense area of which only one third has been built on. The total surface area is four times the size of Paris! In spite of this, the city centre is very confined, nestled in between the port, the Royal Palace and the station (roughly the size of a Parisian arrondissement) and is easily covered by bus or on foot.
The country's oldest standing wooden church.
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin
Day 2: A boat trip to the Bygdøy peninsula
Situated to the South west of the town, the Bygdøy ('inhabited island' in Norwegian)peninsula can be reached by bus (number 30) or, for more fun, by boat (an hour's crossing) leaving from the port. This is a peaceful, bright residential area with its attractive traditional wooden houses, woods and beaches.
The main reason for visiting is its five mseums which each portray an aspect of Norwegian culture. In my opinion I would advise you to concentrate on two of them. Firstly the Norwegian Folklore museum (Norsk Folkemuseum) erected in a large park where you can admire the country's oldest standing wooden church, built in 1235 in the village of Gol (224 km north west of Oslo).It is a true marvel!
Another gem is,of course the Vikings ship museum (Vikingskishuset) which houses the contents of three Viking graves discovered near to Oslo fjord between 1867 and 1904. There are sculpted wooden chariots, engraved jewels, weapons, day to day objects, tools, pewterware, sleighs and clothes etc. All of these exhibits were originally placed in three boats which, according to a common Viking practice served as a burial place for the kings.
The incredible method for preserving these 'drakkars' was by encasing them in clay, making them impermeable to air and water. Admire the fine, slender construction and the beauty of the prows featuring Nordic deities. Built to cross rivers and seas and to transport a hundred warriors over several months, the drakkars spread terror throughout 8th to 10th century Western Europe.
An Evening at the Opera
Oslo is now musically one of the most exciting towns in Europe. Great Norwegian classical musicians have gained renown in recent years. One example is the famous pianist Leif Ove Andsnes and his Norwegian Chamber Orchestra, whose records dedicated to Mozart's concertos and recorded in Oslo's Jar church, have won a large international audience.
In particular Oslo has treated itself to a very futuristic opera house which is entirely covered in marble and glass. Its inauguration took place on 12th April 2008. Like an iceberg emerging from the water, this imposing building, designed by the architectural agency Snøhetta (who also created the new Alexandria library), is situated on the banks of Oslo fjord, in the Bjørvika district, ten minutes from the town centre.
It is as big as four football pitches and is the largest cultural edifice constructed in Norway since the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Inside, the horseshoe shaped hall is completely oak panelled and the acoustics are outstanding.
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin
Day 3: Introduction to Telemark skiing
On the streets of Oslo, in the wintertime, it is not unusual to come across skiers on their way to the pistes by metro (T-Bane line 1 towards Frognerseteren for cross country skiing or Voksenkollen for downhill and telemark skiing.) There are slopes situated in the town itself, 20 minutes from the centre and they stay open and floodlit until 10pm, enabling after work skiing.
The telemark was invented in Norway in C19th by a carpenter named Sondre Auversen. It would be a shame not to use your stay to learn this technical and elegant way of skiing! At the Frognerseteren ski school, an exceptional ski instructor, Reidun Løvstuen will teach you the basics of telemark of which the specifics are to have your heal free and the inner knee always flexed on the bends. It is a very beautiful style of skiing to watch, a sort of dance that is very much in contact with the snow, and is adapted to Norway's particular brand of undulating, sloping small hills.
After the session don't miss out on dining at the Frognerseteren traditional restaurant (www.frognerseteren.no) whose terrace overlooks the whole valley: a wonderful establishment.
Practical informationInnovation Norway (Tourist Information) Charles House 5 Lower Regent Street London SW1Y 4LR Tel: 020 7389 8800 Getting there Scandinavian Airlines Oslo Luthavn airport is located thirty kilometres from the capital. I would advise you not to take a taxi as the fare will be around 1000 NOK – nearly £100! Make sure you take the fast Flytoget train which links the airport with the city centre (National Theatre station) in 20 minutes for only 160 NOK. This train is directly accessible from the underground level of the airport and you can pay for your ticket by credit card using ticket vending machines. The Tourist office is situated next to the Central Station. To find out the opening times go to: Accommodation Shopping The city centre's main shopping streets are where you can do your shopping and buy souvenirs. In Rozencrantz, certain boutiques are a must: Husfliden, Heimen and Unique design for traditional arts and crafts (pewter, wool, enamels, furs, wooden objects) and Scandinavian design. The jeweller David Andersen, in Karl Johansgate, is also highly reputed for his solid silver jewellery. If you like flashy clothes, pay a visit to to the young Norwegian avant-garde designers boutique 'Moods of Norway' who are rubbing shoulders with the very exclusive Louis Vuitton ! Cruises To explore a host of fjords departing from Bergen (the most beautiful town in the country 500km from Oslo) and particularly the sublime Naerøyfjord registered with Unesco World Heritage, taking the famous Hurtigruten, the express coastal cruise going from Bergen to 30 small villages along the North coast is a must. It is an exceptional cruise of 3 to 11 days that you must do at least once in your life! To travel to Bergen take the railway from Oslo to Bergen (the highest in Northern Europe.) | |
Source: ViaMichelin
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