Oslo - a capital in synch with nature

Before leaving to explore the fjords of the Northern coast, which are amongst the most spectacular landscapes in Europe, take time to visit Oslo! The oldest Scandinavian capital captures the quintessence of the nation's culture and gastronomy in exceptional settings.

Recommended duration of visit: 3 days

Day One: Taking the City's pulse

Oslo is characterised by its razor-sharp light, its clean, icy air warmed thankfully by the Gulf Stream (the country has the same latitude as Alaska!) and its population density so small that at times it feels like walking in a deserted town.

Oslo is, above all, a way of life. No other European capital is perhaps so in synch with the rhythms of nature: in December the days are only 5 hours long and in June there are just 5 hours of night. The moment Spring arrives the population is exultant, rushing to the beaches, going on boat journeys and getting on their bikes! In the summertime the all night party is a necessity imposed by nature contested by no-one and everyone is in the streets, in the cafe terraces or lying in the grass. The rest of the year they are early to rise, early to work and early eaters (dining at 6pm.)

Karl Johans Gate
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin

The City Centre

Upon arriving, I suggest you take a stroll around the city centre which is set around the animated Karl Johans Gate, Oslo'slong, straight main road running from the Royal Palace to the central station.

Here you will find many national institutions such as the National Theatre and the University Botanical Gardens, the National Gallery, (which houses several of Munch's major canvasses), The Continental Hotel (the capital's most luxurious), the Theatercafeen (a fine Viennese style brasserie) and the Grand Cafe (where Oslo's C19^th bohemian society used to meet, from the playwright Henrik Ibsen to the composer Edvard Grieg and from the novellist Knut Hamsun to the painter Edvard Munch.)

The architecture here is predominantly neo-classical, with the exception of the colossal red brick town hall inaugurated in 1950 to celebrate the 900^th anniversary of the Oslo foundation. Its two sturdily built towers, erected in front of the port act as a reference point for ships. Inside, in the immense ceremonial hall, the awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize takes place every year on 10^th December. It is the only one of the six Nobel prizes which is not awarded in Stockholm.

Aker Brygge
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin

The port

However to really appreciate Oslo's soul you should head towards the Aker Brygge wharf which is one of the most lively areas of the town. This is the old area of the docks where completely redeveloped warehouses now house restaurants, theatres, cinemas, department stores and offices (including the office of Norway's most famous businessman, the ex prawn fisherman Kjell Inge Røkke; in the summertime you can buy prawns from the fishing boat from which he made his fortune.)

If you look out over the Oslo fjord, which stretches out over 100km, you will notice peninsulas emerging from the blue waters, and also the Akershus Fortress towering above the port, where old sailing ships are moored.

During the summer, the city dwellers take the ferry or their own sailing boats to reach the beautiful beaches of Langøyene, Hovedøya, Ingierstrand, Hvervenbukta, Katten and Fiskvollbukta, where the water is 18°C.

Grünerløkka
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin

Oslo, the capital of Norwegian Design

For a complete change of scenery take tram number 12 and pay a visit to the old workers' district of Grünerløkka, situated to the north of the town.

Nowadays it is the archetypal middle class “boho” quarter, with its interesting fashion, jewellery, music and Norwegian design shops (such as Norway Says Shop, at 15, Thorvald Meyers Gate which displays the creations of designers who have won several wards in Norway.)

A pleasant walk that runs alongside and crosses the river Akerselva will bring you to Telthus Bakken (literally 'just after the river') a worker's garden lined with little wooden houses on a hillside.

You can also observe one of the many open air crèches here, where children are taught to ski from the tender age of two. “Here you learn how to ski before you learn how to speak!” explains Anne-Marie Grevle, my excellent guide.

Nature is all around

Oslo is less well known than its Nordic counterparts of Stockholm and Copenhagen and is often perceived merely as a departure point for cruises to the fjords. This capital founded by the Vikings nearly one thousand years ago, whose name originally meant 'marshy plain dedicated to God' is nevertheless a surprising town which will delight sporty types, food lovers and enthusiasts of fine arts and grand classical concerts. In spite of the manna-like oil wealth that has descended on Oslo it has managed to remain in harmony with nature through its beaches, ski slopes, traditional wooden houses and large parks. 570,000 inhabitants share an immense area of which only one third has been built on. The total surface area is four times the size of Paris! In spite of this, the city centre is very confined, nestled in between the port, the Royal Palace and the station (roughly the size of a Parisian arrondissement) and is easily covered by bus or on foot.

The country's oldest standing wooden church.
© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin

Day 2: A boat trip to the Bygdøy peninsula

Situated to the South west of the town, the Bygdøy ('inhabited island' in Norwegian)peninsula can be reached by bus (number 30) or, for more fun, by boat (an hour's crossing) leaving from the port. This is a peaceful, bright residential area with its attractive traditional wooden houses, woods and beaches.

The main reason for visiting is its five mseums which each portray an aspect of Norwegian culture. In my opinion I would advise you to concentrate on two of them. Firstly the Norwegian Folklore museum (Norsk Folkemuseum) erected in a large park where you can admire the country's oldest standing wooden church, built in 1235 in the village of Gol (224 km north west of Oslo).It is a true marvel!

Another gem is,of course the Vikings ship museum (Vikingskishuset) which houses the contents of three Viking graves discovered near to Oslo fjord between 1867 and 1904. There are sculpted wooden chariots, engraved jewels, weapons, day to day objects, tools, pewterware, sleighs and clothes etc. All of these exhibits were originally placed in three boats which, according to a common Viking practice served as a burial place for the kings.

The incredible method for preserving these 'drakkars' was by encasing them in clay, making them impermeable to air and water. Admire the fine, slender construction and the beauty of the prows featuring Nordic deities. Built to cross rivers and seas and to transport a hundred warriors over several months, the drakkars spread terror throughout 8^th to 10^th century Western Europe.

An Evening at the Opera

Oslo is now musically one of the most exciting towns in Europe. Great Norwegian classical musicians have gained renown in recent years. One example is the famous pianist Leif Ove Andsnes and his Norwegian Chamber Orchestra, whose records dedicated to Mozart's concertos and recorded in Oslo's Jar church, have won a large international audience.

In particular Oslo has treated itself to a very futuristic opera house which is entirely covered in marble and glass. Its inauguration took place on 12^th April 2008. Like an iceberg emerging from the water, this imposing building, designed by the architectural agency Snøhetta (who also created the new Alexandria library), is situated on the banks of Oslo fjord, in the Bjørvika district, ten minutes from the town centre.

It is as big as four football pitches and is the largest cultural edifice constructed in Norway since the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Inside, the horseshoe shaped hall is completely oak panelled and the acoustics are outstanding.

© E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin

Day 3: Introduction to Telemark skiing

On the streets of Oslo, in the wintertime, it is not unusual to come across skiers on their way to the pistes by metro (T-Bane line 1 towards Frognerseteren for cross country skiing or Voksenkollen for downhill and telemark skiing.) There are slopes situated in the town itself, 20 minutes from the centre and they stay open and floodlit until 10pm, enabling after work skiing.

The telemark was invented in Norway in C19^th by a carpenter named Sondre Auversen. It would be a shame not to use your stay to learn this technical and elegant way of skiing! At the Frognerseteren ski school, an exceptional ski instructor, Reidun Løvstuen will teach you the basics of telemark of which the specifics are to have your heal free and the inner knee always flexed on the bends. It is a very beautiful style of skiing to watch, a sort of dance that is very much in contact with the snow, and is adapted to Norway's particular brand of undulating, sloping small hills.

After the session don't miss out on dining at the Frognerseteren traditional restaurant (www.frognerseteren.no) whose terrace overlooks the whole valley: a wonderful establishment.

Practical information Innovation Norway (Tourist Information) Charles House 5 Lower Regent Street London SW1Y 4LR Tel: 020 7389 8800 www.visitnorway.com Getting there Scandinavian Airlines www.flysas.com/en/uk Oslo Luthavn airport is located thirty kilometres from the capital. I would advise you not to take a taxi as the fare will be around 1000 NOK – nearly £100! Make sure you take the fast Flytoget train which links the airport with the city centre (National Theatre station) in 20 minutes for only 160 NOK. This train is directly accessible from the underground level of the airport and you can pay for your ticket by credit card using ticket vending machines. The Tourist office is situated next to the Central Station. To find out the opening times go to: www.visitoslo.com Accommodation www.hotel-continental.no Shopping The city centre's main shopping streets are where you can do your shopping and buy souvenirs. In Rozencrantz, certain boutiques are a must: Husfliden, Heimen and Unique design for traditional arts and crafts (pewter, wool, enamels, furs, wooden objects) and Scandinavian design. The jeweller David Andersen, in Karl Johansgate, is also highly reputed for his solid silver jewellery. If you like flashy clothes, pay a visit to to the young Norwegian avant-garde designers boutique 'Moods of Norway' who are rubbing shoulders with the very exclusive Louis Vuitton ! Cruises To explore a host of fjords departing from Bergen (the most beautiful town in the country 500km from Oslo) and particularly the sublime Naerøyfjord registered with Unesco World Heritage, taking the famous Hurtigruten, the express coastal cruise going from Bergen to 30 small villages along the North coast is a must. It is an exceptional cruise of 3 to 11 days that you must do at least once in your life! To travel to Bergen take the railway from Oslo to Bergen (the highest in Northern Europe.) http://hurtigruten.co.uk/?country=UK www.fjordtours.com

Source: ViaMichelin

The Kinds of Brazilian Visa

Brazil is one of the most beautiful countries in the world!

If you are looking for a place full of natural beauties, you should go to Brazil!


First of all, you will need a visa to enjoy the brazil.

Request your visa at Brazilian embassies or consulates in advance.




The following kinds of visa are currently issued for foreigners coming to Brazil:
• Transit (up to 10 days);
• Tourist (90 days, renewable for another 90);
• Temporary:
I – on a cultural or study trip (2-year stay, renewable for another 2 years);
II – on a business trip (valid for 5 years, 90-day stay);
III – as an artist or sportsman (90-day stay, renewable for another 90 days);
IV – as a student (1-year stay, renewable for another year or until the conclusion of the
studies);
V – as a scientist, professor, technician or professional of other categories, under a contract
or at the service of the Brazilian government (2-year stay, renewable for another 2 years).
VI – as a foreign newspaper, magazine, radio, television or news agency correspondent 4-
year stay, renewable for another 4 years).
VII – as a minister of a religious faith or a member of a religious congregation or order (1-
year stay, renewable for another 1 year).

TAM tirou milhas das tarifas promocionais!

A TAM reformulou seu sistema de tarifas. Quando tu fazes uma reserva no site, aparecem todas as classes de preços disponíveis. Se você escolher a tarifa "promo" (a mais descontada, que deve competir com a tarifa mais descontada da Gol), esqueça as suas milhas: de hoje em diante, essa passagem vai render apenas 20% dos pontos Fidelidade a que você estava acostumado. A segunda tarifa mais descontada, a "light", vai render 90% das milhas. A tarifa "flex" vai dar 100% das milhas. E as tarifas "max" (cheia) e "top" (mais cara) vão render 20% e 50% a mais de milhas. Cada classe tem também prazos diferentes de emissão e regras próprias para remarcação de bilhetes (como multa, etc.).

Simulação de uma viagem de Cumbica a Porto Alegre

Na "promo" (20% de milhas) a tarifa está R$ 160.

Na "light" (90% de milhas), R$ 210.

Na "flex" (100% de milhas), R$ 410.

Na "max" (120% de milhas), R$ 620.

Na "top" (150% de milhas), R$ 880.

Germany, Gengenbach - In the heart of the Black Forest

Stretching over 170 km from Karlsruhe to Basle in southwest Germany, the Black Forest was once a place of terrifying legends full of elves and witches… Today, it is fascinating for its variety of landscapes, and makes you just want to lose yourself far from the noise of civilisation! 3-day trip from Karlsruhe. Places visited: Gengenbach, Durbach, Kappelrodeck, Neuweier, Baden-Baden, Baiersbronn. Total: 291 km Quick overview Beyond its vast northern plateaux almost entirely covered with conifers, the Black Forest is usually divided into three separate tourist areas. First there is the “High Road”, which rises to an altitude of 1,000 m and crosses very contrasting landscapes combining slopes covered with vineyards and orchards and high pasture land (Grinde). Then comes the “Central Black Forest”, which follows the bottom of the valleys of the Kinsig and the Elz and encompasses small towns renowned for their traditional industry (such as Triberg with its clock and watch making industry). Lastly, around Fribourg, the “High Black Forest” is famous for its almost alpine peaks (Belchen and Feldberg), its lakes (Schluchsee and Titisee) and its footpaths, where you can come across rare species of wild flowers. It is also the birthplace of philosopher Martin Heidegger, who saw in the forest path a metaphor for western thought: “In the wood there are paths, mostly overgrown, that come to an abrupt stop where the wood is untrodden. They are called Holzwege.” Martin Heidegger, Off the Beaten Track Gengenbach I suggest starting your tour with one of the jewels of Baden-Württemberg: Gengenbach. Set on the banks of the Kinsig, in the heart of the forest and vineyards, this little town famous for its Christmas market, carnival and Advent calendar, has magnificently preserved and restored the architecture of its old half-timbered houses. So, around the market square, take the time to admire its 18th century buildings such as the Town Hall, Council Chambers, Sweden Tower – designed to defend the town – and Benedictine abbey, which boasts a very beautiful Baroque garden. From the top of the Niggel Tower (der Niggelturm), which houses a Carnival Museum, you can enjoy a panoramic view that takes in Strasbourg cathedral! For lunch, I recommend Pfeffermühle, a traditional restaurant where you can sample a delicious “Baden festival soup”. Durbach Then head towards Durbach, which has been the focal point of the Baden-Württemberg vineyards for 1,000 years. Perched on a hill, the historic castle of the Grand Duke of Baden (Markgraf von Baden) is not just a very beautiful place, it is also where some of the region’s best wines are made. Derived from the Grand CruSchlossberg vineyard, Riesling and Pinot Noir flourish in these sloping granite soils, where the vines are grown organically and outputs are lower (24 hl/ha). Compared to the famous Rheingau Rieslings, famous throughout the world for their minerality and crystalline purity, the wines of Durbach are fruitier and fatter. The Markgraf von Baden winery also produces wonderful late-harvest Rieslings with a low level of alcohol (10.5%). Kappelrodeck This pretty village is located between the Baden Wine Route and the High Road. Its majestic half-timbered houses are dominated by an 11th century castle, which is a symbol of the village: Rodeck castle. As far as the eye can see, the very fertile land is covered with orchards which, when spring arrives, turn the Acher valley into a sea of flowers! The air here is pure, nature good for hiking and mountain bike riding, and the inhabitants very welcoming. Don’t hesitate to set down your bags in the Rebstock Waldulm inn, where charming waitresses wearing traditional costume serve wonderfully fresh regional dishes. Kappelrodeck is, however, worth a visit above all for the delicious brandies that have made its name throughout Germany. Thus, the Scheibel family has, since the early 20th century, been producing artisan brandies distilled over wood fires: they are made with hand-picked wild plums and cherries from the Black Forest, and boast exceptional finesse and aromatic power. Another place not to be missed: Theo Künstel, in the centre of the village, makes very good cherry- and berry-based balsamic vinegars, which will liven up your salads no end! His fir tree honey and brandies are also superb. As for Theo’s daughter, she organises hikes that enable you to discover the aromatic and medicinal herbs of the Black Forest. Lunch at Neuweier Castle The village of Neuweier was until now famous for its vineyards, planted at the foot of a castle that once belonged to members of the French nobility. Today it is an unmissable place to eat, thanks to young chef Armin Röttele (one Michelin star since 2006), whose restaurant is set in an opulent little 16th century castle. Here, this motorcycle-mad adventurer creates Mediterranean-inspired cuisine which, however, relies on good Black Forest produce, such as mushrooms and tender fillet of veal from Elztal, which is grilled and served with a smooth spring risotto. All of his impeccably crafted dishes are full of elegance and lightness, for example his giant prawns in nut crust with salad of white asparagus and herbs. But the most amazing thing is still, for this level of cuisine, the price of the lunch menu: starter, main course and dessert for 30 euros! Baden-Baden In Russia, the expression “to have a Baden-Baden” has been passed down through the ages and still means “to have a good time”! In the past, people came here to take the waters and gamble at the casino; today, businessmen from the Putin era come here first and foremost to deposit their money… “Roulettenburg”, as Dostoyevsky dubbed it in TheGambler, is a stage set the like of which there are few in the world. On the banks of the Oos, upper middle class people, musicians and writers from all over the world cross paths along Lichtentaler Allee – the most beautiful promenade in the town – but also in the tearoom at the Brenner’s hotel, at the racecourse, in the Festspielhaus concert hall or in the “Irish-Roman” baths of the Friedrichsbad. This neo-Renaissance palace has become one of the favourite places to relax of all the stressed senior execs in Europe... Mark Twain had this to say about it, which proves more relevant than ever: “At the Friedrichsbad you lose track of time within 10 minutes and track of the world within 20…” In the footsteps of Bismarck, Napoleon III, Alexander II and Clémenceau, you can go to the Trinkhalle to sample the water of Baden-Baden, which is warm, salty and free here. This unbottled water has been renowned for treating depression since ancient times. Another moving place is Brahms’ house, in the heights of the town: the composer summered here from 1865 to 1874 together with Clara Schumann, and created some major works here, such as his German Requiem, his first two symphonies and his sonata for cello and piano. Lastly, in the heart of the spa park, the new Frieder Burda Museum of Modern Art – named after its founder, a German press tycoon, houses the pictorial quintessence of the last 50 years: Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Mark Rothko, but also Gerhard Richter, Sigmar Polke and Georg Baselitz. Perfectly integrated into the green, retro environment, this parallelepiped all of glass, light and aluminium is the work of architect Richard Meier (Getty Museum in Malibu, Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art). Baiersbronn At last the time has come to take the famous High Road! A total change of scene… Here the forest becomes dark and dense and snow falls in thick flakes, plunging us into a world reminiscent of Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining… Destination? The municipality of Baiersbronn which, after Stuttgart, is the most extensive in Baden-Württemberg, with no less than 9 villages. Above all, Baiersbronn is THE centre of gravity of German gastronomy, with no fewer than 30 restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide, two of them legendary 3-star establishments: great chef Harald Wohlfart’s Schwarzwaldstube and Claus-Peter Lumpp’s Bareiss. Besides the pleasures of the table, I recommend paying a visit to another phenomenon: Reinhard Bosch. This former lumberjack, who once lived in India, is a fitness specialist. His method? Gigantic wooden baths in which you are immersed dressed in linen breeches of the kind that were woven in the Middle Ages… In winter, these “old-style” baths are organised inside a barn and in summer in the open air, in the middle of flower-filled fields. Rose petals, spices and all kinds of salts scent the spring water. Afterwards, Reinhard covers you with clay in order to purify the pores of your skin then, 30 minutes later, rinses you and massages you from feet to shoulders… A memorable experience, I assure you! Practical information Gengenbach Tourist Office www.badenpage.de/gengenbach Pfeffermühle Restaurant www.pfeffermuehle-gegenbach.de Markgraf von Baden wines www.markgraf-von-baden.de Rebstock Waldulm Hotel in Kappelrodeck www.rebstock-waldum.de Scheibel family brandies www.scheibel-brennerei.de Theo Künstel’s balsamic vinegars www.theo-kuenstel.de Schloss Neuweier Restaurant www.armin-roettele.de Baden-Baden Tourist Office www.baden-baden.com Frieder Burda Museum www.museum-frieder-burda.de Reinhard Bosch Wildbader Strasse 87 – 72250 Freudenstadt Tel: 0 74 41 95 29 12 – 0170 993 45 09 Bareiss Hotel in the Black Forest 72270 Baiersbronn - Mitteltal Schwarzwaldstube Restaurant Tonbachstrasse 237 72220 Baiersbronn

Cracow, the real capital of Poland

There’s no escaping the clichés, Cracow is a pure gem, a little Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque jewel. Poland’s former capital city is, beyond question, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978, it is readily compared with Prague, but is a little less touristy. Whilst awaiting the transition to the Euro, life is still cheap here. Make the most of it!

A city saved by a miracle

Poland’s history is a long litany of suffering, littered with invasions, destruction and oppression. Swedes, Austrians, Germans and Russians often left behind nothing but smoking ruins and desolation.

That Cracow (Kraków in Polish, pronounced “Krakuf”) was able to avoid the grim fate of Warsaw – 85% of which was destroyed during the Second World War –is a miracle. It nonetheless suffered greatly at the hands of the Nazis: only 10% of the 70,000 Jews of Cracow survived the war. As for the communists, they wanted to eradicate the soul of this city, which was considered a middle-class and intellectual haunt, by proletarianising it. About 6 miles away they built a gigantic iron and steel works, coupled with a new town in the purest Stalinist style: Nowa Huta.

However, Cracow did not depart from its illustrious past as a political and cultural capital and became a hotbed of resistance, its most famous representative being a certain Karol Wojtyla. If the royal city almost vanished, it was, in the end, because of pollution and neglect. Dilapidated walls, statues eroded by acid rain, filthy façades: anyone who knew Cracow over 15 years ago would find it hard to recognise today. But by neglecting it, the communists in the end protected it from the marks of modernity. Cracow is an intact city, to our great delight!

Rynek

A young city that has regained its colours

Just like its cheerful façades, which have recovered their pastel shades, the population of Cracow is characterised by its youth and dynamism. At a time when the countries of Western Europe are ageing, the contrast is striking: the number of inhabitants has quadrupled since the war and the city remains an important university centre, with nigh on 45,000 students. So there’s nothing fossilized about this city, even though the backdrop has remained unchanged for several centuries, as witnessed by the number of bars and cafés. The considerable Polish diaspora in Canada, the USA and Australia sends its contingent of young students and you can hear English being spoken on every street corner.

Another new phenomenon is the number of mixed marriages with Irish and English people. While France closed its doors to Polish plumbers, over a million Poles emigrated to Western Europe, mainly to the United Kingdom and Ireland, with almost 1,000,000 and 500,000 migrants respectively. You can see the effects of this in the splendid churches of Cracow, where weddings in both languages are not uncommon.

Kanonicza Street

The soul of ancient Poland

Unlike Warsaw or even Gdansk, which was also destroyed to a great extent, Cracow is visibly authentic. Although Warsaw’s architecture is mixed to say the least – the fruit of post-war reconstruction – Cracow forms a townscape of great unity, fashioned through the centuries of over one thousand years of history (the town was mentioned for the first time in 965).

The Cracowians are proud of their city, of its heritage as well as its intellectual and artistic life, which continued after the war in spite of the communist regime, for example through director and playwright Tadeusz Kantor. They are cultivating a very southern nonchalance that is closer to the Viennese spirit than to the northern severity of Warsaw.

This art of living is perfectly symbolised in two places: the Jama Michalikacafé and the Planty. The former is none other than the oldest café in the city, and probably in the country; this den of the intelligentsia, pre-war, has retained its Art Nouveau decor and is covered with works by the various artists who frequented it, notably from the avant-garde Young Poland (Młoda Polska) movement.

The Planty, for its part, is a vast leafy promenade that surrounds the historic centre on the site of the city’s old ramparts, destroyed in the 19th century by the Austrians, like Vienna’s Ring. No better place to observe the Cracowian at leisure: lovers, students of the nearby Jagiellonian University, senior citizens, children on their way back from school…

Far from the tourist bustle of the Rynek (market square) or Wawel Castle, a stroll through Kazimierz will take you back in time, to an age when this was the biggest Jewish quarter in Eastern Europe. It is undergoing profound change, evolving between trendiness, alternative culture and reappropriation by the Jewish community. Deserted and impoverished for nigh on 45 years by the communist government, Kazimierz is making great headway with renovation but still retains housing in serious disrepair and roughly cobbled streets. Worth visiting now, before the place is to be found in every tour operator’s catalogue! The climax of this quest for a bygone world is a visit to the two Jewish cemeteries, a jumble of stelae overgrown with vegetation.

Cathedral

The Royal Way

You should allow at least three or four days to visit Cracow and the surrounding area, but if you are short of time, then set out on the “Royal Way”, which will take you through historic Cracow and enable you to discover the major monuments. A route once taken by retinues of sovereigns or illustrious visitors, today it is roamed by all manner of tourists.

The itinerary starts at Matejki Square, passes by the Gothicbarbican and St Florian’sGate, vestiges of the old fortifications, before following the splendid Florianska Street, with a view of the bell tower of St Mary’sChurch (Kosciół Mariacki) and the main market square (Rynek Główny).With its houses boasting Renaissance and Baroque façades, its cloth hall and numerous pavement cafés, the Rynek is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and will be the high point of your visit.

Next, if you head off down Grodzka Street, where one of the major attractions is the Baroque church of St Peter and St Paul (Kosciół Św. Piotra i Pawła), then go down Kanonicza Street, a very picturesque authentic mediaeval thoroughfare, you will reach Wavel Hill, overlooking the river.

Crowned by its royal castle and cathedral, Wawel is the crucible of Polish identity and a place that is all the more symbolic since this sanctuary was used for the coronation of kings, and is now a pantheon where the various royal dynasties lie alongside illustrious men of the nation, from the poet Adam Mickiewicz to the heroes Tadeusz Kościuszko and Józef Piłsudski.

Mountain biking in Liguria: coasting along the Italian Riviera

With its gentle, sunny climate and backdrop of the Alps and Mediterranean, the Italian province of Liguria is blessed with an exceptional environment. Naturally, tourism of the outdoorsy sort is actively promoted, with an accent on mountain biking. Three of the region’s prime cycling spots are presented below.

While Liguria is one of Italy’s smallest regions, it is also one of the most sought after, thanks to the many resort towns which dapple the coast. With Genoa as its capital, Liguria reaches up to Vintimille on the French border, and over to the port of Spezia at the gates of Tuscany. The ‘Italian Riviera’ has good weather going for it, obviously - the climate is ideal for growing almonds, olives, lemons, grapes and, of course, flowers - but its finest feature is its exceptional position between the Alps and the Mediterranean. A land of plenty which looks to attract visitors during the low season, Liguria entices ramblers and bike enthusiasts with miles of fabulous trails across its parks and natural sites.

Mountain bikers are specially targeted, as they are sure to enjoy the steep inclines and dry, marked trails which are practicable year-round. Cyclists can pedal from one ‘single-track trail’ to the next until they’ve reached one of the magnificent panoramic views of the Mediterranean which are so emblematic of the region.

From the Maritime Alps to Cinque Terre...

Seasoned mountain bikers will favour the alpine slopes of the Alpi del mare, the Maritime Alps. This region of the province of Imperia, situated between the French border and the Piedmont, lets cyclists climb to an altitude of 1,500m (nearly 5,000 ft) in less than forty kilometres (25 mi) before a complete descent all the way to the sea, passing through great prairies and magnificent wooded areas along the way. Clever planning requires you to be driven to the Arroscia Valley at the foot of Mont Sacarello, the high point of the Ligurian Alps. Once you’re up top, the heady thrill of the descent is all yours - presuming you don’t mind a few tough uphill stretches from one mountain to the next! Reserved for the most experienced cyclists.

Finale Ligure, south of Savone, is more accessible and every bit as beautiful. This is where the 24 Hours of Finale MTB competition is held every year, with over a thousand cyclists assembling in order to confront the devilishly divine trails of this coastal resort town. The area boasts a veritable multitude of marked tracks.

Finally, the third spot is far to the south, in the wonderful Cinque Terre Natural Park, on the edge of the Spezia. This natural site’s five villages have been built into the mountains overlooking the Mediterranean. The best way to discover the park is to take a train, then walk - or better yet, pedal.

One of the most beautiful trails leaves from Monte Bardellone, situated just above Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre’s westernmost village. You’ll enjoy a magnificent panoramic view of the nature park and the ancient village towers. Then, a trail along the ridges will lead you along one of the park’s most beautiful ‘singletracks’ (trail n°1) with an exceptional view of the rocky coastline and terraced vineyards. There’s a progressive descent as far as Riomaggiore. Once you’re in the village, we recommend that you curb your bicycle and walk the enchanting via dell Amore, a narrow path carved into the rock between Riomaggiore and the Manarola fishing village which offers one of the peninsula’s most spectacular vistas.

Where to stay

Hotel Florenz

Finale Ligure

Tel: (39) 019 695 667

www.florenzhotel.it

At 800 metres (875 yards) from the sea, this establishment features a vast garden with a pool as well as a bicycle repair atelier and garage.

Relais Il Casale

Tovo San Giacomo

Tel: (39) 019 637 5014

www.ilcasale.it

A superb establishment with a pool and refined dining. Regional specialities.

Practical information

Regione Liguria

Tel: (39) 010 530 821

www.turismoinliguria.it

Based in Genoa, Regione Liguria publish a guide of 15 circuits for cyclists and ramblers. Available gratis at tourist offices or as a .pdf file (look for ‘info material and brochures’ on their website).

A website for cycling enthusiasts in the Imperia province.

www.alpidelmareinbici.it

The website of the Cinque Terre national park (in Italian).

www.parconazionale5terre.it

A website for outdoors sports in Liguria.

www.outdoorriviera.com

Le Bike Park

Via Per Gorra

17024 Finale Ligure

Tel: (39) 019 69 00 07

A mini-circuit where you can test your MTB on freeride trails before tackling the downhill tracks of the Finale Ligure.

www.finalefreeride.com

The 24h of Finale MTB Competition

This 24 hour relay race is battled out in May. Festivities take place non-stop during 3 days - a very popular ‘round-the-clock happening.

www.24hfinale.com

Bornholm: a little closer to Paradise

Hands up those who have heard of Bornholm. There’s not much hype in UK tourist pages about this little Danish island situated near the Swedish coast. And yet, those who have ventured here have never forgotten it.

Like Eric Guggenheim, founder and president of the Olsen smoked-fish company. Talk to him about this “Corsica of the North”, as he likes to call it, and his eyes grow wide. Bornholm has been dear to his heart for over twenty years. For a few weeks now, it has been close to ours.

What’s the reason for this? A few objective criteria and a whole lot of little transient things. It is said that Bornholm has a little of all the finest landscapes to be found in the whole of Denmark. Vast beaches in the south of the island at Dueodde (whose fine sand was used to make hourglasses), a wild, craggy coast to the east, big forests in the centre.

Besides nature, Bornholm has good selling points from an architectural point of view, with coloured fishermen’s cottages and unexpected round whitewashed churches. These fortified churches – four in all – are one of the island’s main attractions; they enabled the inhabitants to protect themselves from attack – fairly frequent in times past. The Hammershus fortress, perched on a cliff over 70 metres high affording a spectacular view of the Baltic, also bears witness to this unsettled past.

To get from one site to another, it is preferable to use a bicycle like a good many Danes who have all, at some time or other, cycled around Bornholm – a sort of pilgrimage made possible by the 124 miles of cycle tracks. It is in fact the best way to explore this island of reassuring dimensions (227 square miles), since by car you can only skim the surface.

Thus you can set out to meet the numerous producers who have given Bornholm its highly gastronomic reputation. Starting with the fish smokehouses, the profusion of which gives you an idea of how lucrative a business the herring industry was in the 19th century. In the early 20th century, the small town of Gudhjem had twenty-five fish smokehouses. Today there remain only about ten on the whole island, but although the number has dropped, the quality is still there.

The røgeri

The island of Bornholm is renowned throughout Denmark for the quantity and quality of its smokehouses (røgeri) – most of the fish smoked there being wild ones caught in the Baltic Sea. Herring, mackerel, prawns, eels and other indigenous fish as well as salmon, of course.

The fish are smoked in the traditional manner, hot or cold. The smoking time and temperature distinguish the two techniques and make it possible to obtain a radically different product.

In cold smoking, after being salted, the fish are smoked for 10 hours at 27°C using beech wood.

In hot smoking, the time is shorter (4 hours) but the temperature higher (70°C) and the wood used is alder, which gives the fish a very delicate flavour.

Salmon can be cold or hot smoked. In the first case, one obtains the smoked salmon that we all know, which can be finely sliced. In the second case, the fish is presented in pieces; it has the appearance of an oven-baked fillet but has a smoked taste of incomparable elegance and mildness.

In general, all fish that can be sliced can be cold smoked. The other, smaller ones, such as herring or mackerel, are hot smoked. Depending on their size, they can be smoked whole or in fillets. In this case, the fish are sometimes flavoured with paprika, pepper, garlic, etc.

With the development of tourism, the røgeri have been gradually converted into little restaurants offering buffets with an assortment of smoked fish. Generally situated on the sea front, these establishments enjoy an unobstructed view.

The typical Bornholm dish, served in all the røgeri, is sol over Gudhjem: a whole hot-smoked herring served with an egg yolk and finely sliced red onion and chives.

The gourmet island

Bornholm is an El Dorado of taste. The numerous producers are spread out over the whole area. Another distinctive feature is that they have all gone for quality. The products of Bornholm are consequently renowned throughout Denmark and are sometimes exported beyond the borders, like the Bryghusetbeers, which are today dispatched as far afield as Hong Kong.

Cockerel breeders, manufacturers of caramels, cheeses, rapeseed oil, mustards, aquavit… You will find most of these products in a mill converted into a shop: Borholm Fødevareudvik-lingscenter, Møllebakken 4c, 3760, Gudhjem.

Also of note are the distinctively flaky crackers (the firm claims that there are 27 flaky layers), which are delicious and very crisp. Made using local flour from the island’s mills and rapeseed oil, also from Bornholm, tasting these unusual crackers is an absolute must. (Johannes & søn, østergade 1, 3720 AAkirkeby).

Another must: the organic ice-cream parlour in Nexø. Try the bilberry ice cream. Boisen, Hovedgaden 4 Snogebaek, 3730 Nexø.

The Bryghuset restaurant offers draught or bottled beer tastings. Svaneke Torv 5. Svaneke.