Stretching over 170 km from Karlsruhe to Basle in southwest Germany, the Black Forest was once a place of terrifying legends full of elves and witches… Today, it is fascinating for its variety of landscapes, and makes you just want to lose yourself far from the noise of civilisation! 3-day trip from Karlsruhe. Places visited: Gengenbach, Durbach, Kappelrodeck, Neuweier, Baden-Baden, Baiersbronn. Total: 291 km  Quick overviewBeyond its vast northern plateaux almost entirely covered with conifers, the Black Forest is usually divided into three separate tourist areas. First there is the “High Road”, which rises to an altitude of 1,000 m and crosses very contrasting landscapes combining slopes covered with vineyards and orchards and high pasture land (Grinde). Then comes the “Central Black Forest”, which follows the bottom of the valleys of the Kinsig and the Elz and encompasses small towns renowned for their traditional industry (such as Triberg with its clock and watch making industry). Lastly, around Fribourg, the “High Black Forest” is famous for its almost alpine peaks (Belchen and Feldberg), its lakes (Schluchsee and Titisee) and its footpaths, where you can come across rare species of wild flowers. It is also the birthplace of philosopher Martin Heidegger, who saw in the forest path a metaphor for western thought: “In the wood there are paths, mostly overgrown, that come to an abrupt stop where the wood is untrodden. They are called Holzwege.” Martin Heidegger, Off the Beaten Track  GengenbachI suggest starting your tour with one of the jewels of Baden-Württemberg: Gengenbach. Set on the banks of the Kinsig, in the heart of the forest and vineyards, this little town famous for its Christmas market, carnival and Advent calendar, has magnificently preserved and restored the architecture of its old half-timbered houses. So, around the market square, take the time to admire its 18th century buildings such as the Town Hall, Council Chambers, Sweden Tower – designed to defend the town – and Benedictine abbey, which boasts a very beautiful Baroque garden. From the top of the Niggel Tower (der Niggelturm), which houses a Carnival Museum, you can enjoy a panoramic view that takes in Strasbourg cathedral! For lunch, I recommend Pfeffermühle, a traditional restaurant where you can sample a delicious “Baden festival soup”. DurbachThen head towards Durbach, which has been the focal point of the Baden-Württemberg vineyards for 1,000 years. Perched on a hill, the historic castle of the Grand Duke of Baden (Markgraf von Baden) is not just a very beautiful place, it is also where some of the region’s best wines are made.
Derived from the Grand CruSchlossberg vineyard, Riesling and Pinot Noir flourish in these sloping granite soils, where the vines are grown organically and outputs are lower (24 hl/ha). Compared to the famous Rheingau Rieslings, famous throughout the world for their minerality and crystalline purity, the wines of Durbach are fruitier and fatter. The Markgraf von Baden winery also produces wonderful late-harvest Rieslings with a low level of alcohol (10.5%).  KappelrodeckThis pretty village is located between the Baden Wine Route and the High Road. Its majestic half-timbered houses are dominated by an 11th century castle, which is a symbol of the village: Rodeck castle. As far as the eye can see, the very fertile land is covered with orchards which, when spring arrives, turn the Acher valley into a sea of flowers! The air here is pure, nature good for hiking and mountain bike riding, and the inhabitants very welcoming. Don’t hesitate to set down your bags in the Rebstock Waldulm inn, where charming waitresses wearing traditional costume serve wonderfully fresh regional dishes. Kappelrodeck is, however, worth a visit above all for the delicious brandies that have made its name throughout Germany. Thus, the Scheibel family has, since the early 20th century, been producing artisan brandies distilled over wood fires: they are made with hand-picked wild plums and cherries from the Black Forest, and boast exceptional finesse and aromatic power. Another place not to be missed: Theo Künstel, in the centre of the village, makes very good cherry- and berry-based balsamic vinegars, which will liven up your salads no end! His fir tree honey and brandies are also superb. As for Theo’s daughter, she organises hikes that enable you to discover the aromatic and medicinal herbs of the Black Forest.  Lunch at Neuweier CastleThe village of Neuweier was until now famous for its vineyards, planted at the foot of a castle that once belonged to members of the French nobility. Today it is an unmissable place to eat, thanks to young chef Armin Röttele (one Michelin star since 2006), whose restaurant is set in an opulent little 16th century castle. Here, this motorcycle-mad adventurer creates Mediterranean-inspired cuisine which, however, relies on good Black Forest produce, such as mushrooms and tender fillet of veal from Elztal, which is grilled and served with a smooth spring risotto. All of his impeccably crafted dishes are full of elegance and lightness, for example his giant prawns in nut crust with salad of white asparagus and herbs. But the most amazing thing is still, for this level of cuisine, the price of the lunch menu: starter, main course and dessert for 30 euros!  Baden-BadenIn Russia, the expression “to have a Baden-Baden” has been passed down through the ages and still means “to have a good time”! In the past, people came here to take the waters and gamble at the casino; today, businessmen from the Putin era come here first and foremost to deposit their money… “Roulettenburg”, as Dostoyevsky dubbed it in TheGambler, is a stage set the like of which there are few in the world. On the banks of the Oos, upper middle class people, musicians and writers from all over the world cross paths along Lichtentaler Allee – the most beautiful promenade in the town – but also in the tearoom at the Brenner’s hotel, at the racecourse, in the Festspielhaus concert hall or in the “Irish-Roman” baths of the Friedrichsbad. This neo-Renaissance palace has become one of the favourite places to relax of all the stressed senior execs in Europe... Mark Twain had this to say about it, which proves more relevant than ever: “At the Friedrichsbad you lose track of time within 10 minutes and track of the world within 20…” In the footsteps of Bismarck, Napoleon III, Alexander II and Clémenceau, you can go to the Trinkhalle to sample the water of Baden-Baden, which is warm, salty and free here. This unbottled water has been renowned for treating depression since ancient times. Another moving place is Brahms’ house, in the heights of the town: the composer summered here from 1865 to 1874 together with Clara Schumann, and created some major works here, such as his German Requiem, his first two symphonies and his sonata for cello and piano. Lastly, in the heart of the spa park, the new Frieder Burda Museum of Modern Art – named after its founder, a German press tycoon, houses the pictorial quintessence of the last 50 years: Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Mark Rothko, but also Gerhard Richter, Sigmar Polke and Georg Baselitz. Perfectly integrated into the green, retro environment, this parallelepiped all of glass, light and aluminium is the work of architect Richard Meier (Getty Museum in Malibu, Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art).  BaiersbronnAt last the time has come to take the famous High Road! A total change of scene… Here the forest becomes dark and dense and snow falls in thick flakes, plunging us into a world reminiscent of Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining… Destination? The municipality of Baiersbronn which, after Stuttgart, is the most extensive in Baden-Württemberg, with no less than 9 villages. Above all, Baiersbronn is THE centre of gravity of German gastronomy, with no fewer than 30 restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide, two of them legendary 3-star establishments: great chef Harald Wohlfart’s Schwarzwaldstube and Claus-Peter Lumpp’s Bareiss. Besides the pleasures of the table, I recommend paying a visit to another phenomenon: Reinhard Bosch. This former lumberjack, who once lived in India, is a fitness specialist. His method? Gigantic wooden baths in which you are immersed dressed in linen breeches of the kind that were woven in the Middle Ages… In winter, these “old-style” baths are organised inside a barn and in summer in the open air, in the middle of flower-filled fields. Rose petals, spices and all kinds of salts scent the spring water. Afterwards, Reinhard covers you with clay in order to purify the pores of your skin then, 30 minutes later, rinses you and massages you from feet to shoulders… A memorable experience, I assure you! Practical informationGengenbach Tourist Office Pfeffermühle Restaurant Markgraf von Baden wines Rebstock Waldulm Hotel in Kappelrodeck Scheibel family brandies Theo Künstel’s balsamic vinegars Schloss Neuweier Restaurant Baden-Baden Tourist Office Frieder Burda Museum Reinhard Bosch Wildbader Strasse 87 – 72250 Freudenstadt Tel: 0 74 41 95 29 12 – 0170 993 45 09 Bareiss Hotel in the Black Forest 72270 Baiersbronn - Mitteltal Schwarzwaldstube Restaurant Tonbachstrasse 237 72220 Baiersbronn | |
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