domingo, 26 de abril de 2009

The Grove…A Grand and Groovy Place in the Country




By Paul Gilbert
Question: What do Queen Victoria, Lord Palmerston, Edward VII, Tiger Woods, Gordon Brown and the England Football team all have in common? The answer? They’ve all stayed as guests as The Grove in leafy Hertfordshire.



© The Grove

Home to the rich and famous

Royalty, world leaders, NFL superstars, premiership footballers and endless A-list celebrities from the world of entertainment, sport and culture, The Grove in leafy Hertfordshire has welcomed them all them all and it’s easy to see why. You may be just a short drive from the bright lights and hurly-burly of the capital but it feels like you’re miles from anywhere. The Grove offers all the splendour of English country house living combined with the chic, funky individuality of a boutique hotel. It’s difficult to pinpoint why but, somehow, as you walk around its plush and manicured surroundings, you just know this place has stories to tell. Every nook and every cranny offers a talking point and you get an immediate sense of its illustrious history.
Earliest records of The Grove date back to 1294 and, in it’s hey day, The Grove was a fashionable weekend retreat for the royal, rich and famous. Queen Victoria, Lord Palmerston and Edward VII are said to have been among the illustrious regulars.
Somewhere along the line, The Grove also established itself as an influential hotbed for political debate. In 1936 the house was described by The Times as 'one of the great political houses of the nineteenth century' and its political connections resound to this day. Prime Minister Gordon Brownchose The Grove to host a global summit for an international think tank of the world’s most powerful politicians, an event that boasted no fewer than 15 world leaders on its illustrious guest list.


© The Grove

Grand and groovy – interiors with a twist

The hotel’s impossible to ignore interiors are a major talking point for any guest at The Grove and represent the culmination of a six-year project undertaken by designer, Martin Hulbert.
As well as blue chandeliers purchased for a fiver from a Ferrari showroom in Milan, much of the fresh and funky artwork on view is the work of German Object Artist, Volker Kühn. Visiting an exhibition the artist was hosting at London's Plus One Plus Two Gallery, Hulbert saw Kühn’s work as a perfect fit for The Grove’s grand and groovy ethos and promptly purchased the entire collection of over 200 pieces!
Now displayed in guest rooms and corridors throughout the house, Kühn’s art provides the venue with a series of witty, fresh and sometimes irreverent artistic flourishes and an amusing and off-beat take on subjects such as love, work and marriage. Walking along a hotel corridor has never been so amusing.
As well as the Kühn collection, The Grove features many other equally striking pieces that underline this grand and groovy theme. Expect perspex boxes containing hundreds of paper butterflies and broken household objects and don’t forget to warn auntie about the naked gardener – a very entertaining video installation piece!


© The Grove

A lovingly restored landscape with contemporary twists


But the bells, bangs and whistles of The Grove’s box of magic tricks are not confined to its interior. The 9,000-year-old, 300-acre surrounding estate of beautiful parkland, lakes and woodland is equally capable of springing surprises following a loving restoration masterminded by acclaimed landscape architect, Michael Balston.
Balston used original 17th century designs to influence his vision of a 21st century garden and bring the parkland back to its original glory with the planting of some 47,500 trees! A dedicated Gardens & Estate team works tirelessly to ensure The Grove remains at its best all year round.
As well as formal gardens, outdoor sculptures, a walled garden and a sunken box garden, visitors can enjoy a magnificent five-panel aluminium water wall designed by American-born sculptor, Gregory Ryan, and showcasing his signature technique of replicating dynamic surface patterns from the natural world.
Also worth a look are Somerset-based Neil Wilkin'selegant glass sun catchers anchored in and around the ponds that are best viewed from the venue’s Glasshouse restaurant terraces and let’s not forget the venue’s daunting championship golf course!


© The Grove

A culinary jigsaw to suit all tastes and budgets

As you would imagine, food has a big role to play at The Grove. Food and drink have always been essential pleasures for guests at any country estate and The Grove continues this tradition, but often with its trademark twist. All food is selected from specialist sources and senior members of the 150-strong kitchen team are encouraged, whenever possible, to develop relationships with local suppliers. A kitchen garden is used to grow herbs, vegetables and fruit and the use of seasonal produce means that food is fresh and menus are updated on a regular basis.
Boasting three separate restaurants, each with its own distinct style, The Grove is able to offer food and surroundings for every occasion from the refined à la carte elegance and fine dining of Colette’s where guests can enjoy dishes such as slow-roast Aylesbury duck, line-caught sea bass with clams and saddle of Denham estate venison, to the chic Glasshouse that provides an opportunity to sample high-quality cuisine from all corners of the globe.
The final piece of The Grove’s culinary jigsaw is The Stables, which doubles as a clubhouse for the golfing brigade. 18th century artist, George Stubbs, was once a regular visitor to the old stables, walking regularly through the leafy Hertfordshire lanes from his home in North London to its collection of mares and stallions. The Stables, with its gastropub-style menu, less ambitious than Collete’s and less varied than The Glasshouse, is still well worth a visit even if you’re of the “golf is a good walk spoiled” school of thought, offering simple, hearty favourites such as Angus steak, slow-roast pork belly and breast of pheasant, all cooked to perfection and served in relaxed and rustic surroundings.

The Grove

Chandler's Cross
Hertfordshire, WD3 4TG
Tel: +44 (0) 1923 807807
Fax: +44 (0) 1923 221008

Dijon - capital of the dukes of Burgundy

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© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin



By Georges Rouzeau
What a beautiful town is Dijon. Renaissance and classical timber-framed houses and private mansions appear on every street corner without ever being overbearing. These buildings, and also the numerous churches, tell the story of this town which has known many a great man.


Place de la Libération
Constructed between 1686 and 1701, the place de la Libération, opposite the palais royal, was conceived by the Versailles architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart but was completed by his student Robert de Cotte. Formerly known as the place royale, it became place d'Armes after the French Revolution, then place du Maréchal Pétain during the occupation and finally place de la Libération. A restoration campaign, under the leadership of Jean-Michel Wilmotte, has driven out the cars.

Segovia, a large open-air museum

© Mª Luisa Saludador

20-04-2009

By Marisa Casado
Segovia, a candidate for the 2016 European Capital of Culture, is a city made for exploration on foot. In the shadow of its impressive Roman aqueduct you’ll find medieval streets with hidden artistic treasures spanning numerous eras and styles.

The city of Segovia, encircled by the River Clamores and River Eresma and situated on a rocky crag 1,005 metres above sea level and 7km from the Sierra de Guadarrama, dates back to around 700 BC. The first inhabitants are believed to have been Celts, though the city has since played host to Romans, Goths, Muslims and Jews... all of whom have left their own cultural imprint on the acropolis. These influences have all played their part in the city’s open-air museum feel, with seemingly every corner offering a surprise of some sort for visitors. No surprise, however, is the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status that was awarded in 1985.
The best way to get to know Segovia is a walk through its old and narrow medieval-style streets, an experience that will almost inevitably culminate in the discovery of one of its beautiful town squares framed with historic architecture. Ditch the car. The best way to see Segovia is on foot. Prepare to be amazed by its impressive aqueduct, Romanesque churches, Alcázar, Cathedral, palaces and ancient city walls.


© Mª Luisa Saludador

The world's best-preserved aqueduct

The most enduring and emblematic image of Segovia must surely be its Roman aqueduct, considered one of the world’s most important historic monuments. The aqueduct, more than any other Segovia landmarks, breathes life into the city that has spread beneath its arches over the centuries and the place simply wouldn’t be the same without it.
Impossible to ignore, the aqueduct is visible from virtually every corner of the city. For the best views head to Plaza del Azoguejo, where you can view the structure’s maximum 29 metre height in all its glory. It’s here in this square that you can also get one of the best available views of the aqueduct’s two niches, one of them occupied with an image of the Virgen de la Fuencisla [the Patroness of Segovia].
As well as one of the most stunning city views from the stairs located to the side of the aqueduct, Plaza del Azoguejo also offers an opportunity to get a close look at the large, rough-hewn granite stones that form the aqueduct. These stones, structured naturally without mortar or cement, represent one of the monument’s most striking features. An incredible feat of engineering perfection and ingenuity.
Spanning a length of 782 metres, the aqueduct was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan in the latter half of the 1st century in order to channel water to Segovia from the nearby mountains, a task that it fulfilled until 1884 and that it could, amazingly, still perform today. As recently as 1928, the aqueduct was deployed to supply water to the upper town, in this instance via a pipe that still runs over the old canal.


© Mª Luisa Saludador

A stroll through the old town

There are so many delights waiting to be discovered as you stroll through the town that it’s difficult to single out one highlight, though no visit to Segovia is complete without a trip to the Cathedral and Alcázar, two of its most important buildings.
The late Gothic-style Cathedral, located in Plaza Mayor is a majestic building with beautiful spires. Built under the direction of Juan Gil de Hontañón, the architect behind the New Cathedral of Salamanca, the Cathedral’s windows, choir and altarpiece make it a must-see attraction. A visit to the Cathedral Museum is also highly recommended. Here you can view over 500 incunabula including a real treasure, Sinodal de Aguilafuente, widely considered as the first ever book to be printed in Spain.
The Alcázar makes an imposing fortress with a location and structure that practically screams for attention. Situated on the confluence of the Eresma and Clamores, the building dates back to the Celtic era and still retains its deep moat and drawbridge. The Alcázar has served as a royal palace for several reigning kings through the years including Alfonso VIII, Alfonso X el Sabio, Juan II, Enrique IV and the Catholic Kings. Be sure to climb the Torre de Alfonso X El Sabio tower that offers beautiful views of the city.


© Mª Luisa Saludador
And if you still have time after all that then you could either head to the ancient city walls, 2,500 metres in length and dating back to the end of the eleventh century, or step into any one of the many Roman churches that you’ll find along the way such as San Millán, San Andrés, San Esteban, la Iglesia de los Templarios, San Martín or La Trinidad. Also highly recommended is a walk through the Jewish quarter and the Barrio de los Caballeros, an area crammed with Gothic renaissance and the palaces that once acted as family homes for Segovia’s nobility.
And what better way to finish the day than by sampling some authentic Spanish food. Lamb and suckling pig are considered the real stars of Segovia’s regional cuisine, but there are many delicious alternatives to enjoy including Castilian soup or judiones de la granja [the creamy, giant white beans often used in stews and paellas].
And there’s always the tapas option if you’re looking for something lighter…tortilla, hams, torreznos [pork crackling] and chipirones [squid]. Tapas dishes are usually served from around 12:30 midday and then again from 7pm. A great selection of bars can be found around Plaza Mayor, a perfect place to relax and enjoy some great tapas ... washed down, of course, with a first-class Ribera del Duero.

Spring Rock in Bourges

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© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin

13-04-2009

By Georges Rouzeau
Le Printemps de Bourges (21 - 22nd of April) music festival is an opportunity to discover this town which still has countless examples of Gothic architecture in the vicinity of its cathedral and its famous Jacques-Coeur Palace.



© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin
As with certain other provincial towns, Bourges suffers from a lack of image. But once you are there one discovers an attractive town and indeed a very lively one, due to its cultural institutions and its many students. Of course the reasons for visiting are: the St-Etienne cathedral, one of the biggest in France, the Jacques Coeur Palace named after Charles VII's minister of finance, the half-timbered houses and winding cobbled streets, the Estève museum (a painter from l'École de Paris who is less well known these days but whose talents as a colourist will appeal), the musée des Meilleurs ouvriers de France (museum for France's best artisans award) in the old Bishop's Palace. Nor should one forget the Printemps de Bourges festival which transforms the town into a gigantic rock concert.
After this you discover the bars and the numerous restaurants of which there are some very nice places such as l'abbaye Saint-Ambroix (François Adamski, Bocuse d'or andMeilleur ouvrier de France award.) or le Piet à Terre (Thierry Finet.) There are also second-hand booksellers, a stringed instrument maker, a proper bookshop and traditional butchers etc.
Bourges saw the introduction of the first of France's Maisons de la Culture, inaugurated by Andre Malraux in 1963. It is also an old university town (Calvin studied and spread his reform ideas from here.) Its National College of Art is equally well known and you can visit its 'Box' gallery of temporary exhibitions which displays 6 to 8 French or international artists every year. This town of the old French province of Berry is also the European capital for the study of bats: these wonderful little flying mammals haunt the vaults/cellars and the many outlying quarries.


© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin

From the religious to the civil: two Gothic art masterpieces

Bourges cathedral is one of the most beautiful in France. It was built over eight centuries ago in only two periods (1195-1214 and 1225-1230.)
One never tires of wandering around it and its wide flanked chevets or passing through its richly sculpted portals. Inside there are no less than five floors alternating shade and light. The cathedral is also home to one of France's richest collections of stained glass windows.
Then go down into the crypt where the lower church houses a white marble recumbent statue of Jean de Berry the lavish and famous sponsor of “les très riches heures” (illustrated manuscript) created by the brothers Paul, Jean and Herman de Limburg. The third son of the King of France Jean II (known as 'the Good') is still watched over by his favourite animal - a bear chained by fleur-de-lys. Michel Pastoureau dedicated some fascinating pages to this plantigrade animal in his 'The Bear, a story of a King deprived of his throne.' The crypt also conceals another treasure, a C16th entombment replete with approximately ten statues.


© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin



Formed by four main buildings surrounding a central courtyard, the Jacques Coeur Palace is quite simply one of the most sumptuous civil buildings of the Gothic era. Sadly Jacques Coeur, who was abandoned by Charles VII, did not have much of a chance to enjoy it.
The facade displays great colour: a lavish decorative display in tribute to the master and mistress of the house, whose busts gaze amorously at each other (in fact they should have been looking at the centrally placed King who has now disappeared.)
The exceptionally beautiful and opulent interior of the palace is a testimony to the Finance minister's fortune.


© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin

The Medieval Town



All you have to do now is wander through the tastefully restored old town, which has numerous half-timbered houses such as those in Rue Bourbonnoux.
The gardens at the Bishops Palace at place Étienne Dolet, the Ramparts promenade at l'hotel des Échevins (Estève museum), and the Passage Casse-cou (Break-neck passage) in the Rue des Juifs. These Berry place names exude a Middle Ages charm.
A night time visit is also a must. Follow the night illuminations route to see the main Berruyer monuments brought out and revealed in a new light by this urban scenography.

Practical Information

Tourist Information for the Cher département
Bourges Tourist Office
21, rue Victor Hugo
BP 126
18000 Bourges
Tel: +33 (0)2 48 23 02 60
Opening hours: everyday from 9am to 6pm and Sundays from 2pm to 5pm.
Where to eat
Bourges has no shortage of good places to eat. Berry's capital is surrounded by rich local produce such as game, cheeses, meats, fruit, vegetables and wine.
Le Piet à Terre
44, boulevard Lahitolle
18000 Bourges
Tel. : +33 (0)2 48 67 95 60.
Set menus at 34, 39, 64 and 129 €
At his new Berruyère address (an attractive mansion), Thierry Finet creates sharp, lively cuisine which negotiates between citrus fruits, fresh herbs and an expert use of spices. His dense, aromatic sauces enhance these truly opulent dishes which are not simply “concept dishes”, as is far too often the case in creative cooking. The impression is of an artisan-cook who is passionate, experimentalist, yet respectful of tradition.
Le Jacques Cœur
3, place Jacques Cœur
18000 Bourges
Tel. : +33 (0)2 48 26 53 01
Lunch menu from 19,90 €
A la Carte: 50/84 €
A few months ago Stéphane Philippon took over this legendary Bourges restaurant which has been starred for over thirty years. These days Jacques-Cœur's a la carte menu offers a mixture of traditional french dishes, local Berry dishes and some more creative dishes. For example you will find sole meunière, calf's head with gribiche sauce (vinaigrette sauce with chopped boiled eggs, gherkins, capers and herbs), veal kidneys with Madeira wine sauce or poultry vol au vents.
Le Bourbonnoux
44, rue Bourbonnoux
18000 Bourges
Tel: +33 (0)2 48 24 14 76
Dinner Menu 13 € (weekdays)/ 32 €
Marie-France and Jean-Michel Huard serve classical cuisine, which is often brought up to date by a few exotic touches: beef kidneys are topped with a sauce seasoned by an infusion of arabica, vegetables with aromas of tonka bean, fillet of duck rubbed with the fragrance of kaffir lime. Everything is 100% home made.
L’Abbaye Saint-Ambroix
Boulevard de la République
18000 Bourges
Tel: +33 (0)2 48 70 80 00
D’Antan Sancerrois
50, rue Bourbonnoux
18000 Bourges
Tel: +33 (0)2 48 65 96 26
Where to stay
Best Western Hôtel d'Angleterre
1, place des Quatre-Piliers
18000 Bourges
Tel. : +33 (0)2 48 24 68 51
In an attractive location, a short walk from the Jacques Coeur Palace, the hôtel d’Angleterre benefits from being very spacious. It has been completely renovated throughout and now offers rooms with a high level of comfort (some with two doors.) Welcoming reception. Covered garage (10€.)